Percussionist Mike Tempo is perhaps best known to blues fans as a longtime member of The James Harman Band. While aboard the Legendary Rhythm and Blues Cruise in the Caribbean this past fall, I had a chance to visit with my fellow Los Angelino. He told me that he was going to go ashore in Martinique and attempt to find a particular drum for his extensive collection. When he got back on the ship we sat down together and talked about his experience in Martinique and a drum called a gwo ka.

Alex Gardner (AG): Have you ever played a gwo ka?

Mike Tempo (MT): I have never even seen one. I have heard records where this instrument is played, but that’s it. I have always wanted to play one.

AG: When did you realize you were going to perhaps have a chance to encounter this instrument?

MT: It started about a year ago when I found out we were booked on this cruise and we would be going to Martinique. I knew at that point that I was going to try and find a gwo ka

AG: Is there a translation for gwo ka?

MT: It means big drum. The gwo ka is mainly indigenous to Guadeloupe which is just north of Martinique.  These drums are a symbol of Creole culture. They are easier to find on Guadeloupe than Martinique but I had this feeling that I would be able to find one on the island. It was more than a feeling. I just knew I was going to find one. I don't know any players in Martinique, but I just knew it was there. I knew there was a drum on this island for me. Sometimes drummers are funny this way. Call it magic or call it whatever, I just had a lot of confidence that I’d be able to get my hands on one of these drums.

When we got to Martinique, I got off the ship. There were two or three cats playing in this little shack for the tourists on the boat. They were wrapping up their set as we got off the ship. I asked one of the musicians if he knew a drum maker. I told him I was looking for a gwo ka He said yes and gave me the guy’s name which was Sully Cally. He also gave me directions to his shop which wasn't too far from the ship. I was able to walk there. We walked up the street and found a little nondescript shop, not even a shop really, just a door with a piece of paper with his name on it.

I knocked on the door and this guy came out. He was the nicest guy in the world. Like I said, this drum is not a Martinique style instrument, but Guadeloupe, so I didn't know if he would have one. He had drums all over the shop that were in various stages of being built but they were ones that I already own. I wanted a gwo ka. Then I spotted one sitting over in the corner of the shop. I inquired about the gwo ka that I spotted. He said he just finished making it. As it turns out Sully is a famous drummer in his own right. He plays with a well-known Martinique troupe.

AG: How long does it take to make a drum like this?

MT: I'm really not sure. It's a barrel drum. I don’t know if this was a rum barrel to begin with. I think he did some work on the shell. He drilled holes for the hardware to hold the straps. It’s just a real rootsy drum. It has a goatskin head and the rim is wrapped in some kind of twine. Traditionally with this kind of drum you sit on it. It is put together with mountain climbing style rope so it doesn't stretch. The tension on it is amazing. He had just made so it was just drying in the shop.

AG: Does he dry his own goat skins?

MT: I didn’t ask, but his shop didn't smell like it. (laughs) Goat skin makes for a much thinner head. It is a big surface for such a very thin head. It gives it a certain sound. Nice and high... It produces a kind of ringing tone.

AG: Would you be kind enough to demonstrate how this drum is played?

(Mike begins playing the drum while speaking)

MT: Another thing that is interesting about these drums is why you sit on them to play. It is so that you can use the heel of your foot to control the tone. Sully tuned it up for me, so it sounds great.

AG: This not exactly the kind of instrument you are going to find at Guitar Center...

MT: ...or in America PERIOD. I've never seen one in person but I’ve wanted one for many years. I just couldn't be happier about it. I am a collector of instruments that I like from all over the world. I play them all. I have a garage full. (laughs)

AG: Do you usually get drums from their makers?

MT: Whenever possible. It's much hipper than going to a drum shop. I don't think Sully sells his wares outside of his own little shop. There aren't any instrument stores like that for indigenous instruments that I am aware of.

AG: Let’s talk a little about Sully Cally. It is clear to me that you have a great deal of affection for him. He seems like a special person.

MT: Sully is just the sweetest guy in the world. He is really cool and I feel like I made a great connection. I feel so lucky that we were able to meet. I am lucky he was in Martinique at all. He had just gotten back from touring with a troupe. I was really lucky to catch him on that particular day when he just finished making the drum. When I bought it I had him sign and date it. I mean think about it. I happened to talk to one guy who sent me to this guy who was six or eight blocks away, who happens to be in the country, who happens to be in his shop, who happens to have a gwo ka, even though it is a drum that isn’t that prevalent in Martinique. It was all magic to me. I feel very honored and humbled to have this gwo ka.

I would also like to point out that Sully had  written a book about the drum. The name of the book is something like the Magic Drum of Koyo. Koyo is a boy in Martinique who finds the drum washed up from a slave ship in Africa. The drum is telling the story. It is told in Creole, French and very bad English, but very charming and endearing English. He illustrated it and one of the illustrations is the drum in his shop with the face on it. He (the drum) is telling the story of  going on the slave ship as a barrel and as a drum that was taken with the slaves. There was a ship wreck and he got cast aside. The drum floats for days and little fish hide inside from the sharks. He gets all weathered from being in the water and washes up on shore where a little boy finds it. The story goes on from there. Sully gave me a copy of the book with the drum.

AG: Speaking of stories, your story of how you came to purchase this particular instrument is more than a story of an instrument. It is more than just a drum.

MT: Absolutely! This event is not so much about me owning this drum,but rather the honor and responsibility of being a part of its life and destiny. Sully Cally sensed this, he would never have sold this particular drum to me otherwise. Regardless the amount of money exchanged, it was a gift and it's important that it is with me at this time. I'm blessed to become a player and care-taker of this gwo ka. The Lord works in mysterious ways.

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